Sunday, 22 April 2012

Junior Swedish Masters 2012 Lead Climbing

This weekend there was the Junior Swedish Masters at K2 in Telefonplan. I was there to check out Swedens upcomers and was really impressed. The place was filled with eager climbers and a lot of proud parents. Watching the smallest kids at around 6-7 years old climb is hilarious. They climb effortless and just reach, pull and could do that all day long. Some can barely reach the next hold but that's ok, they just pull up and monkey bar to the next hold.
The winners of the juniors however were the most impressive, born 93-94 and 95-96. These are going to be professional climbers in a couple of years no doubt about it. It's just a matter of time before the big sponsors pick them up. Their technique is immaculate and a joy to watch. See the full list of contestants here. The final results here.

So while I was watching JSM at K2 I had the chance to try their bouldering area out for the first time. I was impressed by the nice long overhangs they have there and even though I shouldn't I had to give it a try. I tried an easy route with big jugs, around 18 moves and allthough I couldn't get to the last hold it gave a nice pump each go.

I've patiently been waiting for spring and the weather to pick up. By the looks of it I'll have to wait a bit longer. Grey skies, snow and rain seems to be the theme of april this year. Right now it's 5 degrees outside and raining. Last year this very date it was 22 degrees and sunny. I don't even want to know what the weather is like on Vancouver Island right now. Ok I'll look... 12 degrees and cloudy. That doesnt make me feel better at all.

My training has been going so so. I'm really strong from all the bouldering but are in dire need of rest. My finger is finally better from traversing and slab climbing but on my last session I sustained a soreness in my wrist. I've decided to take a couple of days rest and let my body catch up. My least favorite thing about climbing, rest days.

Check out this cool video by Alex Puccio climbing in Hueco Tanks, Colorado. Particulary this wicked move at 2:35

I'll end this with one of my favorite climbing quotes:

"If you cannot pull a single hard move, you have nothing to endure". Tony Yaniro

Edit: A video from JSM 2012 Lead






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